metrofoodie

And Lo, It Comes to Pass . . .

After that last ruminative post about Trader Joe's, which prompted some hollering and arugula throwing around the Metroland offices, we felt it best to cool our heels for a bit. And were getting good and ready to smack this blog sensate when a Minivan screeched to a stop in the parking lot and out tumbled a family that resembled in every respect the stick-figure approximations applied as decalcomania to the van's rear window.

"Look! Look!" cried Suburban Dad, clutching a copy of a local business journal. "Trader Joe's is coming! We never wanted that Office Max anyway!"

"I've never really been able to make the best feeding decisions for my family," his missus added, cinching a little tighter the cashmere sweater tied around her waist. "I love it that, as I'm forced by hungry crowds through the store's skinny aisles, I can grab all-in-one meals fully thought out by -- does Joe himself do the choosing?"

"Plus they have piles of sweetened stuff that we can pretend isn't candy in prominent point-of-purchase locations!" cried little Shenendoah, his or her mouth a rictus of dried carob.

"And, unlike parent company Aldi, you don't have to rent your shopping carts!" added the toddler. "Plus they have less-creepy-sounding made-up brand names!"

We know what this kind of excitement is like. We read an Orlando Weekly writer's promise to drive 200 miles when a Trader Joe's opens sorta nearby. And so it will be, with open mind and a good-sized, hemp-spun shopping basket, we shall explore this new testament to Albany's upscaleishness. Although we were holding out for a Stew Leonard's.

-- B. A. Nilsson

Party (or eat) like it's 1982!

Just saw Jimmy Scalzo, who confirmed that he has indeed been consulting with the new owners (of Inferno fame) of his former restaurant on New Scotland Avenue, Quintessence. Apparently Scalzo has taught them his recipes for chicken and steak teriyaki, etc., and that they are opening with his original 1982 menu. No word yet on Italian Night . . .

Living in Chains

I am delighted at the volume of the response to my previous post about the movement to bring Trader Joe’s to the Capital Region (even if most of the comments disagreed with me!). If these passionate posts are any indication, Trader Joe’s should start breaking ground here immediately.

 

I would like to point out that most people involved in the Local First movement recognize that we are going to be living with chains for the foreseeable future, and also that not all of our needs are met by locally owned businesses.

 

I would also like to give some credit to Trader Joe’s for leaving a relatively small footprint, for not trying to be a community’s all-powerful retailer (Wal-Mart) or even trying to take over the majority of the market share in one category (Starbucks).

 

But I do take issue with one suggestion that came up in a couple of posts: the notion that opposing the proliferation of chain stores is “Smallbany” thinking. In fact, I’d like to argue that it’s quite the opposite.

 

You may not agree with it or embrace it, but the movement to support sustainable local economies is rooted in the belief—backed up by considerable persuasive scholarship—that the stronger your local business community, the more wealth stays in your community (instead of being shipped out to pay for bloated corporate salaries, PR campaigns, lobbying for tax breaks, etc.), and that this in turn leads to better urban planning and less sprawl; a greater sense of civic pride; more participatory democracy; and a stronger community identity. Again, you may or may not agree, but this philosophy is hardly rooted in fear or small-mindedness.

 

Before Starbucks opened its first store here, its many fans might have made similar arguments (even though the indie coffee here is equally good or better). Now that there is a Starbucks everywhere you look, do you think it has made the Capital Region look or feel more progressive? No, it just makes it look more like everywhere else. When residents speak positively of the quality of life here, do they talk about Wolf Road and Crossgates Commons, and how every suburb seems to have a Target and a Panera? Or do they talk about the unique downtowns, neighborhoods, architecture, arts institutions, and thriving local arts and music scenes? Chains may fill certain needs, but they do not give us our identity or sense of civic pride.

 

As much as I like Trader Joe’s, I’d still rather not see one here because I don’t think we need it, and, however else you slice it, it’s a chain. Then again, as the many comments on the last post suggest, maybe it will fill the upscale-food-downscale-price niche better than anything here at the moment, and maybe it will prove complementary to the co-ops and farmers markets. We probably will have a TJ’s here soon. . . . and then, get ready . . . for the Whole Foods invasion!

 

Stephen Leon

 

Eat at Joe's?

In the last two days I have received a barrage of e-mails--at least 30, if I counted correctly--from local folks urging Metrofoodie to blog about why we need a Trader Joe's in the Capital Region. I was curious about the sudden flurry, and I assumed it had to be some sort of a planned campaign, so I did a little digging, and sure enough, it was organized by someone named Bruce Roter, who appears to be the driving force behind a group called We Want Trader Joe's in the Capital District (wwtg.org).

If you're not familiar with Trader Joe's, it's a food store chain that sells natural and somewhat upscale products at very reasonable prices in a comfy, neighborhood-store setting. For many people who stumble into a TJ's for the first time (many of the 322 locations are in California, but you can find them in places like Larchmont, N.Y., Fairfield, Conn., and Brookline, Mass.; the closest one, in Hadley, Mass., is about an hour and 45 minutes from Albany), it's love at first sight. People come home gushing about all the high-quality groceries they bought and how little they spent. As founder Joe Coulombe puts it, "Trader Joe's was designed by me in the 1960s and 70s to serve people who are overeducated and underpaid."

You should also know this: Coulombe sold TJ's in 1979 to German billionnaire Theo Albrecht, whose family also owns the discount food-store chain Aldi, which is a decidely less upscale, no-frills operation aimed at lower-income and less food-snobby populations.

So . . . And I say this as someone who has shopped several times at Trader Joe's and loved it: Do we need another big-box retailer to come into our area, grab a slice of the natural-foods pie, and ship the surplus profits out of our region (in this case, out of our country)?

With the local, sustainable foods movement (and the broader local, sustainable-economies movement) really picking up momentum, even a seemingly benign chain like Trader Joe's may be past its time. I will paraphrase a suggestion I was offered on this subject by someone involved in those movements locally: To all of the people who put their energy into the cause of bringing Trader Joe's to the Capital Region, have you considered putting even half of that energy into finding out more about, and partaking of, the local and natural food options we have here? Have you considered joining a co-op? Shopping at or volunteering at a farmer's market? Joining a CSA?

Landing a TJ's (or a Whole Foods) in this market might seem a sign of progress to some, but there may be drawbacks to the local economy, not to mention the health of local growers, co-ops, etc.

But I'd like this to be a starting point for discussion. I would really love to hear comments, especially from the supporters of the movement to bring a Trader Joe's here.

--Stephen Leon

Albany Restaurant Week: May 3-9

We called them "snowflakes" when I was a waiter -- people who drifted in, ink-smeared coupons in their sweaty hands, setting foot for the first time in a fancy restaurant because they were going to get an entree for nothing. And tip accordingly.

You, of course, are nothing like that, and so I share with you news about Albany's annual Restaurant Week. It commences Sunday, May 3, and at various times during the week you'll find full fixed-price meals for an unheard-of $20.09 at Albany Pump Station, Amo La Bella, Bayou Café, Café Capriccio, Le Canard Enchaine, Envy Lounge, Franklin’s Tower, Hollywood Brown Derby, Hudson Harbor Steak & Seafood, Jack’s Oyster House, Jillian's, Katrinella’s Bistro, Kelsey’s Irish Pub, La Serre, the Mansion Hill Inn, Marche at 74 State, Savannah's, V&R Restaurant, and Victory Café.

Menus and other details are at the Downtown Albany website.

-- B. A. Nilsson

Feted Fatheads

The greatest radio monolguist was Jean Shepherd, who held forth on WOR for 30-some years. You know him best as the author of the stories he turned into the movie "A Christmas Story," but his legacy is much more than that.

Building on a long-standing Manhattan tradition, Albany had its inaugural ShepFest today, bringing local aficionados out of the woodwork and even luring folks from New York City. Deborah Cote, who owns and runs Jack's Pizzeria on South Pearl Street (right across from the Arena) and is herself a fervent enthusiast, threw open the restaurant on a Saturday afternoon and served several varieties of her excellent pizza.

I didn't stay long enough to see if she added her jerk chicken wings to the buffet, but they alone are worth a visit to the place, where you'll dine in an unusually comfortable room and can enjoy the sight of a real "Christmas Story"-style leg lamp in the window.

Excelsior!

-- B. A. Nilsson

"I'M -- WHAT!? -- I'M AT THE COFFEEHOUSE!"

My father, a frequent flyer long before points were awarded for such activity, lamented the decline of air travel from a snob’s point of view. As flying became more affordable, it became more annoying, he argued, because of the influx of hoi polloi. Ever rebellious, I scorned such elitism even as I dodged the flying vomitus from the squalling, overfed infant across the aisle.

Snobbery is hereditary, I suppose, because I shall now bitch to an uncaring world about my coffeehouse problem. Specifically, the invasion of logorrheic jerks who seek out seats as close as possible to me and then holler into their cell phones (and, come on, people, have you not a scrap of self-consciousness about your dorky ringtones? Really? Really?) – while some sugar-infused offspring bellows from a chocolate-smeared kisser for attention.

I’m recalling a halcyon day of coffeehouse peace that probably never existed. I’m suspecting – hoping, even – that Addison and Steele had to put up with this shit. But they put out The Spectator. I’m just writing crap like this.

-- B. A. Nilsson

Why the long line

in front of Bombers on Lark Street? Because it's Free Burrito Day, that's why. It's not only a day of customer appreciation from Matt Baumgartner and his staff, but also a benefit for the Albany Boys and Girls Club (the burrito is indeed free, but you can also make a contribution to the Club if you like).

Free Burrito Day lasts until 11 PM.

--Stephen Leon

Tax and Tip Included

This has to be way more fun than robbing banks:

HOBOKEN - A man who posed as a waiter made off with $186 in cash from unsuspecting patrons at two restaurants, police said yesterday.
    Wearing a button-down dark blue or black shirt, a yellow tie and khaki pants, the spiky-haired 20-something pinched the first check at Hobson's Choice, 77 Hudson St., at about 7:20 p.m. Thursday, police said.
    The man approached two women who had recently received their bill and asked if they needed anything else before paying.
    The women ... said no and handed him $90 in cash, police said.
    The man next went Margherita's Pizza and Cafe, at 740 Washington St., about 9 p.m. that night, (where he) approached three women and asked them if they were ready to pay, police said.
    The women ... told cops they gave the man $96 for a $66 bill and expected change.

Complete story here.

-- B. A. Nilsson

Bread Lines

Rural living offers far fewer opportunities for social gathering than urbanites enjoy, a result of a smaller population and a lack of gathering places. And the fact that we (for I write as a farm-dweller) have been forced into the exurban shopping model, looking for groceries and hardware and all our electronics shit in malls and supermarkets -- which, it's worth remembering, are privately owned and thus able to put the kibosh on social gathering as fast as you can holler "Security!"

Not far from my house is a general store that has been a feature of the town for many decades, but its prosperity waned over the past twenty years, until it went dark at the end of last year.

But an enterprising farmer in the village opened it again in January. I wrote about Tim Lane in 2005, when he was hustling lettuce to farmers' markets. He since has added bread-baking to his repertory, and the store features his fresh loaves. Here's a view of proofing dough:

Tim is an amiable fellow putting in far too many hours at the place, but he has galvanized it into a gathering place for the community such as we haven't had for years. The early-morning coffee contingent solves the world's problems en route to work; a steady lunch business relaxes over homemade soups. And the store is experimenting with dinners, evening events when a single entree is offered for under ten bucks.

This is when you really see the charm and necessity of a community gathering place. Folks who don't see one another in the course of a week talk from table to table and enjoy the bonding that comes from sharing a meal.

Not surprisingly, Tim wants to offer fresh, local produce during the summer months, and try to keep his other products as locally derived as possible. And this guy is no wild-eyed rebel: he's as conservative a fellow as you'll find out here, but it's a true conservative outlook that comes from the economy of preserving the community as a social unit.

Others have suggested that such models will be ever more important in this time of crap economy; it's a joy to live down the street from a flourishing example.

-- B. A. Nilsson